If you are interesting in the history of surfing, you may like my review of Big Wednesday
The review itself is OK, but what I was proud of was my accompanying interview with "Frail" Dale Davis, who made surfing films for a living, and was my friend. I personally know nothing about surfing, but Dale was actually there in that first group of nationally prominent surfers, photographing them and occasionally surfing beside them. He was able to discuss from personal knowledge how closely Any Wednesday and its central characters matched up with the real people and events that inspired the story.
Dale died in 2001, but it seems like about a month ago that he and I had this discussion, thus demonstrating how hard it is for us to comprehend or gain perspective on the fugiting of tempus.